Dealing with the "buoyancy": according
to the Blue Peter brochure, which you can see on the About Blue
Peters page, "the hull is bonded to the coloured deck/cockpit and creates
large areas of sealed in buoyancy which are foam filled for total
unsinkability-even in the event of serious damage to the skin". So I was not
impressed when I cut out the holes to repair the hull, to see no foam at
all. I decided to fit 6" hatches at both ends of the boat to allow me to
check this out and see how I could remedy the situation.
This is the cut-out for the hatch in the rear bench. There is not a shred of
any form of buoyancy anywhere in the boat. It would sink like a stone if the
hull was really ruptured. I also found two plywood backing patches for toe
strap fittings just sliding around loose inside. The hull mouldings are
really solid and well made, but every hidden part of the boat is very poor
and potentially dangerous.
Rear
hatch screwed in place temporarily. I will take it out before I paint the
hull and then bed it in sealant. I can also get at the inner end of the
rudder lower pintle fixings now, so shall replace them with bolts.
The
hatch in the fore deck. This will also be removed, along with all the new
fittings before painting. The hatch allows me to fit backing pads to the
cleat and the U bolt, which is not yet in place in this picture. When all
else is finished, I shall fill the voids with expanded polystyrene packing
pieces to finally get some real safety buoyancy. I am not happy with the
faults I have found, but it is quite rewarding to feel that for once I have
actually improved a boat and not just "altered" it.